How Long to Log 1500 Hours?
#41
Gets Weekends Off
Joined APC: Jun 2019
Posts: 167
No I’m saying the exact opposite.
The GI Bill should pay 60-70%(?) of every rating and certificate after the Private.
I think the R-ATP is overrated as the difference in time (2-3 months) is insignificant.
Do the Private as cheaply as you can then use the GI-bill.
Unless I’m misunderstanding what you are trying to do.
The GI Bill should pay 60-70%(?) of every rating and certificate after the Private.
I think the R-ATP is overrated as the difference in time (2-3 months) is insignificant.
Do the Private as cheaply as you can then use the GI-bill.
Unless I’m misunderstanding what you are trying to do.
#42
On Reserve
Joined APC: Jan 2021
Posts: 23
Do you plan going all the way through MEI? I’ve read the program Instrument to MEI takes about 2 years. Of course I don’t even know if CFI-I or MEI is required to graduate and complete the program. I’ve heard of people using Liberty for Instrument and commercial, then moving somewhere else to knock out multi and Cfi since it might can be completed elsewhere outside a 141 program.
As a full-time student, you can finish in about 2.5 years. If you want to become a CFI, I recommend you stick to around 12 credit hours a semester so you can be a full-time student (Collecting MHA) while being an instructor.
As of now, I'm not planning on getting my CFI/CFI-I/MEI. My goal is to time build my way to 1,000 hours by shelling out a good amount of money to get there faster than instructing.
#43
Gets Weekends Off
Joined APC: Mar 2017
Position: Student of the game
Posts: 1,011
Almost 40 and debating a career change. Just trying to get a gage for how long it will take to get all the requirements done to get to a regional/corporate job. For those that have completed their 1500 hours how long did it take? If you are a CFI how long did it take? How many hours did you average a week/month? Thanks
#44
On Reserve
Thread Starter
Joined APC: Oct 2022
Posts: 13
Also did you have any interviews before you got to 1500 hrs?
Last edited by MNFlyer4531; 10-31-2022 at 06:57 AM.
#45
Line Holder
Joined APC: Feb 2023
Posts: 46
I paid right at 20k for it. It cost me $54/hr to fly it including every single thing I did to it (some upgrades, basic maintenance, fuel, FBO fees, profit when sold and so on). Sold it for a few k more than what I paid for it. Market is different today though but a well looked after 150 will not depreciate over 500-700 hours. Owning your own plane means you KNOW you will fly 100 hours a month if you want.
If you jump in head first, you can do zero to a flying job in 6 months, and zero to ATP in a year.
If you jump in head first, you can do zero to a flying job in 6 months, and zero to ATP in a year.
Thank you so much!
#46
This is amazing! I am really interested in doing exactly this, except since I have zero knowledge of airplane maintenance, I have this fear of what might happen after buying an old, cheap beat up plane. Can you tell me how you found this plane for sale? How did you maintain it? I am looking to find a 152 or experimental and get about 120-140 hours a month out of it for the next 5/6 months before I am on my way at a 135. What advise do have for me given your experience?
Thank you so much!
Thank you so much!
If you buy one, get a good pre-buy to make sure it's not a complete POS. A lot of these airplanes tend to sit and not be flown for a long time, so you get a lot of problems with corrosion, piston rings going bad, flexible hoses rotting out, things like that. Make sure to check compressions on the engine, that's a big one people who flew their plane for two hours in the previous year get when they go in for annual, a cylinder doesn't make compression, so it has to be pulled. Make sure the pre-buy mechanic opens up inspection panels and looks for corrosion in the airframe. Planes that have been flying regularly will be in much better condition than planes that sit a lot. Go through log books as well, and try to identify any damage history and make sure ADs have been complied with. People will try to sell you junk, especially in a market where they can easily get double what they would have gotten a few years ago for a POS airplane.
If you buy make sure you put the effort in at the start, to make sure you get something that's actually good. If not, you might take it in for annual and get some nasty surprises.
Last edited by chihuahua; 02-22-2023 at 05:36 AM.
#47
Disinterested Third Party
Joined APC: Jun 2012
Posts: 6,001
Depends on how fast you write, and if you have a new pen, but be aware that it will take at least 1,500 hours to fly 1,500 hours.
It took me a few yeas of spraying crops, towing banners, dropping jumpers, instructing, flying grand canyon tours, towing gliders, and a few other things.
It took me a few yeas of spraying crops, towing banners, dropping jumpers, instructing, flying grand canyon tours, towing gliders, and a few other things.
#48
The prices for everything went way up in 2020. Planes that would have been around $70,000 are selling for over $150,000 now. Those cheap C150/C152 that were selling for $20,000 are now in the $40,000 range. A lot of these airplanes are 50-60 years old now, and after about 1981-1982 time frame there was no light aircraft production till they started back up again in the mid to late 90s.
If you buy one, get a good pre-buy to make sure it's not a complete POS. A lot of these airplanes tend to sit and not be flown for a long time, so you get a lot of problems with corrosion, piston rings going bad, flexible hoses rotting out, things like that. Make sure to check compressions on the engine, that's a big one people who flew their plane for two hours in the previous year get when they go in for annual, a cylinder doesn't make compression, so it has to be pulled. Make sure the pre-buy mechanic opens up inspection panels and looks for corrosion in the airframe. Planes that have been flying regularly will be in much better condition than planes that sit a lot. Go through log books as well, and try to identify any damage history and make sure ADs have been complied with. People will try to sell you junk, especially in a market where they can easily get double what they would have gotten a few years ago for a POS airplane.
If you buy make sure you put the effort in at the start, to make sure you get something that's actually good. If not, you might take it in for annual and get some nasty surprises.
If you buy one, get a good pre-buy to make sure it's not a complete POS. A lot of these airplanes tend to sit and not be flown for a long time, so you get a lot of problems with corrosion, piston rings going bad, flexible hoses rotting out, things like that. Make sure to check compressions on the engine, that's a big one people who flew their plane for two hours in the previous year get when they go in for annual, a cylinder doesn't make compression, so it has to be pulled. Make sure the pre-buy mechanic opens up inspection panels and looks for corrosion in the airframe. Planes that have been flying regularly will be in much better condition than planes that sit a lot. Go through log books as well, and try to identify any damage history and make sure ADs have been complied with. People will try to sell you junk, especially in a market where they can easily get double what they would have gotten a few years ago for a POS airplane.
If you buy make sure you put the effort in at the start, to make sure you get something that's actually good. If not, you might take it in for annual and get some nasty surprises.
Get a pre-buy from an INDEPENDENT IA, who does not have a relationship with the owner or recent history with the plane. Also need one who knows the type in question. So you're probably going to need to fly the plane somewhere else for the pre-buy. A decent broker should know the lay of the land vis a vis inspections.
A recent annual DOES NOT equate to a pre-buy, as many buyers have discovered to their lasting regret.
Also borescope... there are very affordable borescopes today, and they can tell you a lot about the cylinder and valves directly, without having to try to infer from compression, etc. A borescope can spot valve issues before they have a mechanical affect which would even show up on a compression check. You'll want the shop to already be in the habit of doing borescopes, if not they're behind the times IMO. I borescope my car engines before I spend any money on repairs or upgrades (there's an app for that).
And I probably wouldn't buy any kind of project plane if your goal is to build time... everything A&P is backlogged right now, both parts and labor, so you could end up with a very expensive ramp decoration while you should be building time. About the only outstanding items I'd accept right now on a plane that I wanted to fly soon would be brakes, or ADS-B if needed.
#49
And while it goes without saying, I’ll say it anyway. You are after HOURS, not miles, and things like retractable gear, turbocharger, speed mods, etc., while they may increase the value and cost of the aircraft, will not help you with those hours much, and it’s just another thing to insure and to go wrong maintenance-wise. For that matter even the availability of 100LL fuel is far from guaranteed in some areas.
https://www.politico.com/news/2023/0...-fuel-00081641
Something low compression with available STC for ethanol free mogas may be a reasonable option.
https://www.politico.com/news/2023/0...-fuel-00081641
Something low compression with available STC for ethanol free mogas may be a reasonable option.
#50
New Hire
Joined APC: Mar 2022
Posts: 2
This is amazing! I am really interested in doing exactly this, except since I have zero knowledge of airplane maintenance, I have this fear of what might happen after buying an old, cheap beat up plane. Can you tell me how you found this plane for sale? How did you maintain it? I am looking to find a 152 or experimental and get about 120-140 hours a month out of it for the next 5/6 months before I am on my way at a 135. What advise do have for me given your experience?
Thank you so much!
Thank you so much!
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