Don't mean to turn my own 787 thread into a travel advice column, so let me just give a brief anecdote of my trip to Italy. My husband and I actually and voluntarily booked tickets on the Treno Notte because I wanted to save on one night's stay at a one star pensione. He took his belt off and tied it around the door handles to prevent thieves and hookers from entering. Senora Eloisa's squeaky bed and 25 watt light bulb room was safer.
CL65, I love Sicily. Palermo, Agrigento, Piazza Armerina, Siracusa and my favorite, Catania.
For those who would rather fly, I suggest Wind Jet. I believe at least one APC member flies for it.