This is a decent strategy.
It shows more knowledge than those who have no understanding of withholdings and if they see 50% withholdings they think the govt is taxing them 50%.

But other than child tax rebates (whi h is refundable) , other rebates ie. EV or solar roof are not refundable. So if IRS gives you 1k back on returns and you have 1 kid, you still get 2k for the kid and 3k back total.

Meaning if you owe 7.5k in taxes at the end of the year you bought an elidgale EV, that 7.5k rebate you got evens you out.

If they owe you even 1$, your 7.5k rebate is forfeit.

If you know what you are doing (which the OP clearly needs to hire a tax expert), you can claim enough on your w4 to owe what you plan on getting a rebate for to close to even you out.

Or IF you got at least 1$ back last year, you can claim withholdings exempt, and possibly end up with a 30k tax bill which can be covered by the 100k purchase of a massive solar facility/roof (30% rebate=30k). And reap rewards of free electricity next 20+ years and some back from the grid enjoying that 30% discount lowering your payback/profit/break even period.

But probably not be able to claim withholding except next year though.

The goal should be to owe just enough not to be penalized, not just $0. Which depends on a lot of factors but mainly previous year's w2.

And we all make enough here to way overshoot (minimize witholdings) and re-adjust in October or November and withold 100% for the last 2-3 months if you solar project fell through or whatever reason you aren't going to get a rebate anymore and don't want to get penalized.

Which also requires discipline and financial savvy (i.e not living paycheck to paycheck or depending on premium and being able to afford living with 0 paychecks for 3 months.) Basically do your own withholdings (as much as the govt would withold) even putting it in a low int savings account would be better off than letting the govt withold it and then calculate how much to withold those last few paychecks to avoid a penalty.

If you know you aren't going to qualify for any non-refundable rebates, than yes, 0 is best. But things come up, I think it's better to have some in the neg earlier in the year to get the benefit of a rebate should one come up, and work back to 0 if you need or at least work to under penalty.

Disclaimer: I'm far from a tax expert, but feel I know enough from basic google searches to use things to my advantage which hasn't resulted in an audit or penalties yet. Use with caution, YMMV
I'm sure there are way smarter people than me on this that can correct me and i can learn from.