Originally Posted by notEnuf

Self sustaining home with a solar roof and a medium sized wind turbine and you are a supplier, not a consumer. Tesla wall and an EV or 2 give you the storage capacity to reliably not worry about either source.

Originally Posted by Seneca Pilot

If they can just get the solar roof price down a little more it will really start to make a huge dent. You can have a twenty KW power plant on your roof and store excess power in a battery bank. Run the house, charge the car, and sell power back to the grid. Combined with an ICF house and some good windows and you can go all night without needing to run heat or A/C.

Originally Posted by badflaps

Have you priced an 8D batt. lately? Prolly need about ten.

Originally Posted by badflaps

I had a 56' motorsailer for 29 years, anything less than a gel battery is a long term nightmare. The Panzer boys had it right.

Originally Posted by Seneca Pilot

Gel and AGM are good, no doubt. Of course Tesla uses Lithium. The biggest advantage to nickel iron over any others is the lack of memory. They can be pulled to zero, charged to 100% and back to zero or maintained anywhere in the middle with little or no long term effect on battery life or ability to charge. Old tech but very stable and long lived. Too heavy for sail boats or vehicles but fine to anchor down a house.

Originally Posted by Trip7

Thanks. First I highly recommend reading a couple books first, The Acquirer's Multiple by Tobias Carlisle and The Little Book that Beat the Market by Joel Greenblatt. Both are quick, easy reads. Pair those with Investopedia.com where you can look up any terms you don't understand and get additional education on how to read an income statement, Balance sheet, and Cashflow statement. One Up on Wallstreet by Peter Lynch is another great book to follow up with. Also a relatively quick read.

Next you begin your research which starts with selecting your screening method and a good screener. I look for companies that have low EV/EBIT multiples(Enterprise Value to Earnings Before Interest and Taxes). It's essentially a better version of Price to Earning ratio (PE Ratio) because it adds the net debt of the company to the market cap so you have a better sense of the company's capital structure. I use The Acquirer's Multiple $45 a month screener. Gurufocus(also $45) is another great screener for EV/EBIT or EV/EBITDA screening. Free screeners are plentiful but those usually limit you to PE ratio screening with no EV related screening options.

Once I run the screener I look at the cheapest companies then look for quality. I search for a company that has enough cash to cover all its long term debt, is free cash flow positive in operations, and has decent return on invested capital. Almost all the companies I listed I have never heard of in my life so it's was intriguing to learn about the businesses reading their 10k. Some of these companies are so undervalued while gushing cash I invest after less than 20 mins of reading. I typically invest in 12-15 companies (anything more than that is a pain to track) equally sized.

Overall the key to all this is to realize you are purchasing pieces of a business not pieces of paper. If you take the time to learn how to accurately value businesses in the long run the market will reward you.

In the short term the market is a voting machine, in the long term it's a weighing machine, and it's weighing the free cash flows generated by the business. Your goal is to find companies that are trading at low to rediculously low valuation relative to its cashflows.

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Originally Posted by NoDeskJob

To those a couple pages ago who were asking about “will I have enough?”

A philosophy/approach is the 3% rule.
what it means is, whatever your nest egg is, as long as you don’t pull more than 3% from it per year, you will be fine.
A read one article where the author ran simulations during multiple decades, including 1929, 2009, and you could do it.
Others have said 4% should be the rule. More conservative.

Originally Posted by 123494

The 4% rule is the big one that seems to work over many 30 year periods. Unless you are a big spender in retirement, you'll likely end up with more than what you started with. Great if you had kids or a cause you care about. If you're single like me, not so much.